Big cities like Porto offer us endless entertainment options, with a schedule that fills up at the fast pace of daily life, but sometimes the greatest luxury is turning off your cell phone. Less than a two-hour drive from Porto, about 90 km away , the village of Pena is the ideal destination for those who need to slow down.
Situated in a remote spot, on the ‘outskirts’ of the Serra de São Macário valley , here the hustle and bustle of city life is a distant reality, finding its only parallel during the high season—when this village in the municipality of São Pedro do Sul (district of Viseu) receives the most attention from tourists. With just over ten inhabitants, what it lacks in population, it makes up for in mystique and the picturesque atmosphere typical of its schist and slatehouses.
Where “the dead killed the living”
In such an inhospitable place, where access requires winding through the tight curves of the Serra do São Macário, it is no wonder that fascinatinglegends have emerged . The one that puts Pena on the national map is that of “the dead man who killed the living.”
It is said that, during a very harsh winter, a group of men was carrying a coffin along a steep and slippery trail, causing the coffin to fall and fatally strike one of its bearers.
Today, this story sets the tone for the Adega Típica da Pena, where the phrase is proudly displayed at the entrance. It is the must-visit spot to sample the famous Lafões veal or roast kid while listening to the village’s tales.
The refuge that hides from the sun
Due to its remote location, the village of Pena, one of the smallest in Portugal, receives only a few hours of sunlight. In winter, natural light visits the valley for just three hours, creating a mystical twilight that, combined with the sound of the stream, transports visitors to a realm of absolute tranquility.
A challenge for the fearless
Getting to Pena is an adventure in itself. The road is steep and narrow —in many places, only one car can pass at a time—which makes the descent to the valley floor an adrenaline-filled moment. But the reward comes as soon as we park the car at the entrance (since vehicles are not allowed inside): the feeling that “it was worth coming to Pena.”
Following the devastating wildfires that affected the municipality of São Pedro do Sul in 2025, visiting this part of the country is also a way to support the resilience of communities living in more rural areas.
What can you visit?
- Strolls through the streets and narrow alleys
- A meal at Adega Típica da Pena (restaurant)
- The small craft shops
- The Ribeira da Pena
- And the Pena Guest House for those who wish to extend the experience by sleeping in the total silence of the mountains.
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